This Walk offers a medley of shops, covered passages, and salons de thé in a lively neighborhood relatively free of tourists.

Metro: Trinité

Take rue St. Lazare east. On the left up rue de la Rochefoucauld is the Musée Gustave Moreau, devoted entirely -and abundantly- to the works of an artist who once taught Matisse.
Farther along rue St. Lazare on the Left, at 80, rue Taitbout, is the charming square d'Orléans, where George Sand and Frédéric Chopin resided in separate apartements in the 1840s. There's a pretty fountain, and plaques explain who lived where when. Farther along rue St. Georges leads up to the perennially popular and cozy Mediterranean restaurant Olympe Casa (#48). Still farther along rue St. Lazare is Detaille (#8), which has sold its magic skin potions here since 1905. Turn right at rue Bourdaloue, where Bertrand (#7), a gem of a salon de thé with striped walls, velvet curtains, and a sparkling interior, is an ideal stop for a thick hot chocolate and a pastry on a cold day. Take rue du Châteaudun to rue du Faubourg-Montmartre and La Mère de Famille at #35, an old-fashioned gourmet food shop founded in 1761. Admire the old sign on its facade.
Then turn in to the plain but elegant covered passage Verdeau, where you'll find the Verdeau-Drouot salon de thé (#23). Cross into the Passage Jouffroy, Cinédoc (#45) has a tremendous selection of movie posters, and Le Comptoir de Famille (#35) sells traditional housewares. You'll pass near the Musée Grevin, Paris's own wax museum at 10, bd. Montmartre, on your way in to the passage des Panoramas, which dates back to 1800. Turn right on rue St. Marc, then left on rue Vivienne to reach the Bourse metro. On the last Friday of every month, an antique/flea market takes place in front of the Bourse.

         Metro: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

Head west along the bustling rue St. Honoré. Café Verlet (#256) is a cozy lunch spot pungent with the aroma of freshly ground coffee. Cross over to Colette (#213). Featuring eclectic clothes and accessories, this hip boutique is the style mecca of Paris and perharps best known for its basement water bar, where customers sit at large, spare tables and order from the extensive water menu. Don't worry-there's food too. Turn right, up rue du Marché St. Honoré. Le Rubis (#10) is a wine bar famous for how little it has changed. Here, amid dust-covered bottles of wine, one feasts on hearty lentils with ham hock, cheese, or salami sandwiches and puckery lemon tart. At the north end of the place du Marché St. Honoré, visit a branch of the famous Parisian bakery Poilâne (#42) for a pastry and Philippe Model (#33), where fabulous hats as colorful as Easter eggs perch delicately. Continue north, veer left onto avenue de l'Opéra, then left at place de l'Opéra (site of the baroque Palais Garnier) onto rue de la Paix, where the world's most renowned jewelers have set up shop. Window-shop your way to Place Vendôme, where Love in the afternoon, with Audrey Hepburn and Gary Cooper, was filmed in 1957. The sumptuous Ritz, with its swank Hemingway bar, is at #15. #13 has an example of France's official measure of the meter carved in the wall. Continue south to rue de Rivoli.
On the right, Le Soufflé, at 36, rue du mont Thabor, is a cozy restaurant specializing in just that. Or opt for a hot chocolate at the pretty salon de thé Angelina (226, rue de Rivoli). For English-language books, stop at W.H. Smith (#248)on your way to the Concorde métro.